If Korea is a country with a rich cultural heritage, no city proves that better than Gyeongju. This ancient city in the southeastern corner of the Korean peninsula is a repository of much of the country's greatest cultural relics and historical treasures. For a thousand year, Gyeongju was the capital of a culturally rich and prosperous kingdom called Shilla. For the next thousand years, Gyeongju remained Korea's cultural capital, maintaining the beauty and magnificence of the old kingdom. It is no wonder that the city now hosts a world cultural expo every three years, attracting numerous domestic and foreign visitors. With its breathtaking natural beauty and splendid man-made artifacts, Gyeongju is fast becoming a leading tourist venue of Northeast Asia. Its newly built and renovated tourism facilities, ranging from five-star hotels to world-class golf courses, are magnets for tourists who seek historic sites with modern comfort.
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Gyeongju was the capital of the Shilla Kingdom (57 B.C.-935 A.D.). It has a myriad of historic sites, cultural relics, and legendary monuments, all of which are lively reminders of Shilla spirit and culture. Gyeongju is also a showcase for national treasures, rare antiques and Buddhist culture, making it a "museum without walls." Here Koreans and non-Koreans alike can learn about the grandeur, as well as the daily life and religion, of people who lived centuries and even millennia ago. In the relics of Buddhist culture, the artistic creativity and scientific achievements of the Shilla people come alive.
The Dongsa and Jusa mountain ranges stretching north to south form Gyeongju's natural boundaries on the east and west, respectively. The city itself is built on a basin composed of granite, and there are many mountains in and around the city. As for rivers, the In, the upper stream of the Hyongsan, flows into the West, the North winds through the middle of the city, and the South flows by Banwon Fortress. All of these rivers join to form the main stream of the Hyongsan, which flows north to south along the west side of the city and empties into Yongil Bay.
Shilla was founded by the Saro tribe, which occupied what later became Gyeongju. Scholars believe that the Saro established a confederation of tribes during the reign of King Naemul, 356-402 A.D. King Naemul also instituted the hereditary monarchy of the Kim clan instead of sharing the throne with the Park and Sok clans. The Saro were late in establishing a kingdom compared to the other two nations existing on the Korean peninsula at that time: Goguryo and Baekje. The Saro confederation maintained close ties with Goguryo, located in the north, but relations with Baekje to the west were fraught with tension. In 433, however, King Nulji broke with diplomatic tradition by forming an alliance with Baekje. The territory occupied by the Saro confederation of tribes started to show many characteristics of a full-fledged kingdom in 500 under the reign of King Jijeung, who changed the name of the country to Shilla.
King Beopheung who ascended to the throne in 514 promulgated state laws and decrees, and officially recognized Buddhism as the state religion. He also conquered the main part of the Gaya state on the eastern tip of the peninsula, thus securing a stepping-stone to expand into the Nakdong River basin. King Jinheung ascended to the throne in 510 and forged an alliance with King Seong of Baekje, annexed the Han River basin for Shilla, and started trade with China. His attempts to expand the kingdom's territory continued until the border was pushed all the way to the southern area of Hamkyong Province in modern-day North Korea. The expansion of Shilla achieved under the reign of King Jinheung facilitated the unification by Shilla in later years of the three countries that existed the peninsula at that time-Shilla, Goguryo and Baekje. King Jinheung built monuments in the newly acquired territory to demonstrate the power of Shilla and organized a unique military corps called Hwarangdo.
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Shilla continued to prosper under the reign of Queen Seondeok. But the death of her successor, Queen Jindeok, provoked a power struggle between aristocrats supporting the queen and others. General Yushin Kim used this power struggle to push Chunchu Kim to take the throne. These two Kims played leading roles in conquering Goguryo and Baekje and unifying the Korean peninsula. Chunchu Kim, or King Taejongmuyol, established an autocratic monarchy. Since his reign, only his family had the right to ascend the throne. He also forged an alliance with Tang China and conquered Baekje in 660 and Goguryo in 668. This was the first time in KoreaÕs history that the peninsula had been unified under indigenous leadership.
After unification, the country reformed its systems in accord with Chinese models. Jipsabu was established as a central administrative body; Confucianism was named the political ideology of the country, which created an environment where bureaucrats rather than aristocrats could take control of the government; and relations between the king and the aristocrats living far from the capital were reinforced. The government also divided the peninsula into nine provinces and the bureaucrats of the central administration into five classes. All of these changes resulted in the establishment of the autocratic monarchy and the centralized government.
But Shilla's star began to wane from the 10th century due mainly to power struggles between Jin-gols and Seong-gols. The Seong-gols were those whose parents were both from the royal family, while Jin-gols were those with only one parent from the royal family. Later, two generals who claimed to be the descendants of Baekje and Goguryo established post-Baekje and post-Goguryo, dividing the Korean peninsula again into three kingdoms. But Shilla was too weak by then to stand against the two kingdoms. Shilla tried to form a friendly alliance with post-Goguryo when Wang Geon ascended to the throne. But King Gyeongsan, the last ruler of Shilla, finally surrendered in 935 to post-Goguryo, which later changed its name into Goryo.
In Gyeongju, most of the important cultural and historic remains are within walking distance of each other. Royal tombs, ancient palace sites, royal gardens and ponds, temples and structures like Cheomseongdae and the Gyeongju National Museum truly make the entire city an open museum. The spirit of the Shilla Kingdom "lives" in the Great Tombs Park, which comprises no fewer than 23 known tombs. Of special significance is Choenmachong (Heavenly Horse Tomb), which is open to the public. The royal garden, Anapji, next to the main Shilla palace was built by King Munmu in the 14th year of his reign (674 A.D.). The three kingdoms of Korea were unified while King Munmu was on the throne, and the glory of that feat is reflected in this garden. An artificial lake and pavilions were built and were filled with flowers and birds.
Hwangryongsa, one of the three treasures of Shilla, was famous for its nine-story wooden pagoda and Solgeo's pine-tree paintings. Presently, only the foundation stones remain at the old site. Its excavation in 1976 proved it to be the greatest temple in East Asia. The relics from the temple are on exhibit at the Gyeongju National Museum.
Mt. Tohamsan was considered by many to be a sacred mountain. This mountain, the highest in Gyeongju, was a natural fortress that protected the people of Shilla against invaders. During difficult times, the people of Shilla performed sacrificial rites on the mountain. It is said that King Talhae became a mountain spirit after a small statue, made of his own bones, was placed on the mountain. Seokguram Grotto and Bulguksa Temple are on opposite sides of the mountain. Both were designated as world cultural heritage sites by UNESCO in December 1995.
Many items inside Bulguksa Temple have been designated as national treasures, such as Dabotap Pagoda, Seokgatap Pagoda, Cheongungyo Bridge, and Chilbogyo Bridge. The syllables "Bul-guk" mean "land of happiness." They reflect the sentiments of a country that lacked nothing and experienced no agony or pain. At the time of its completion, it was a very large temple comprising 80 wooden buildings. Surviving throughout the Goryo and Josun dynasties, it contracted in size and activity. During the Japanese invasion in the 15th century, all the wooden buildings were destroyed by fire. After that, it was gradually reconstructed over time, though hardly to its original grand proportions. From 1969 to 1973 the site was excavated, and on the basis of that excavation Bulguksa was rebuilt on the larger scale that exists today.
The panoramic scenery at the summit of Mt. Tohamsan includes a beautiful skyline of endlessly connected mountain peaks in the west, and the horizon of the deep blue East Sea to the east. Seokguram Grotto captures the essence of the cultural and scientific excellence, as well as the religious aspiration and faith of the Shilla people. Several statues of Buddha are engraved in the rocks of both sides of the stone gate, the ingenuity of which defies description. The stone gates are carved into the shape of a rainbow and within the gate lies a great stone statue. The lid stone and other stones in the cave are round and perfectly balanced. The statues of Buddha standing alone seem almost alive in their magnificence.
To make Gyeongju a truly international tourist destination, the nearby Bomun Lake Resort was recently developed. At this 2,613-acre resort formed around Bomun Lake one finds modern convention halls and recreational facilities, traditional culture and art performances, plus sports and leisure activities aplenty. In perfect harmony with the historic sites around the lake, the resort offers visitors top-class hospitality and traditional Korean hospitality.
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