March - April
 
 
                                                                                                                                                   When SARS hit last                                                                                                                                             year, particularly in East                                                                                                                                      Asia, many wondered why the                                                                                                                                   Koreans remained relatively                                                                                                                              unscathed. There were no reported                                                                                                                          cases of SARS in Korea, while China                                                                                                                      and other Asian nations were plagued by                                                                                                                    the deadly disease. Although there is no                                                                                                                  scientific proof, kimchi is believed by many                                                                                                                  to have played a role in keeping Koreans                                                                                                                    from catching SARS. Kimchi¡¯s rich                                                                                                                            ingredients and special fermentation                                                                                                                              process are thought to be good not                                                                                                                                only from a nutritional standpoint,                                                                                                                              but also effective in preventing                                                                                                                              diseases. It is not surprising that                                                                                                                           sales of kimchi have surged in China                                                                                                                         and other parts of East Asia after the                                                                                                                        SARS outbreak, as consumers race to                                                                                                                       stock up on that pickled vegetable                                                                                                                            mainly to avoid the disease.
                                                                                                                               Kimchi is the most famous Korean                                                                                                                                food. It is the general term given                                                                                                                                to a group of fermented                                                                                                                                vegetables found in Korea and,                                                                                                                                along with rice, has been                                                                                                                            traditionally viewed as a ¡°must-have¡±                                                                                                                        with almost every meal. Kimchi is an                                                                                                                   excellent example of how vegetables like                                                                                                               Chinese cabbages and radishes can be stored                                                                                                    for a long time in an ordinary household, especially                                                                               during cold winter months when fresh vegetables are difficult to find.

There are four basic steps in making kimchi. The first step is to salt Chinese cabbages and radishes. Second, you have to wash the salted vegetable with fresh water. The next step is to add spices and seasonings such as red hot pepper, garlic, fish sauce and ginger. The fourth and final step is to store the spiced vegetables in a cool place for a few days. This process lets the vegetables undergo a process of naturally mixed lactic acid fermentation. Traditionally, kimchi was stored in big jars buried underground. Today, specially designed refrigerators have been introduced to keep kimchi fresh for months.

The origin of kimchi may be the Chinese pickle. Chinese pickles were introduced to Korea and modified to form several types of kimchi that were made of common raw ingredients suited to the taste of Koreans during the Shilla and Koryo dynasties. Until the Koryo dynasty, radishes were the main vegetables in kimchi, though cucumbers, eggplants and green onions were also used at that time. Whole-cabbage kimchi and other kimchi prepared with red hot pepper became popular after the middle of the Yi dynasty. Peppers were imported to Korea in the early 17th century, and the first record of them being used as an ingredient in kimchi dates back to 1766.

Kimchi generally has a sour, sweet and carbonated taste. It is very different from sauerkraut, which is a popular fermented vegetable dish in the West. Many different kimchi recipes have been published, and fermentation methods for making kimchi vary from region to region. As a result, different types of kimchi taste different. Despite the uniqueness of every kind of kimchi, the basic taste is derived from salt, lactic acid fermentation of vegetables, spices (including hot red pepper, garlic, ginger and green onion) and pickled fish or fresh seafood.

Fermentation of kimchi is carried out by the various microorganisms, especially lactic acid bacteria, which are already present in the ingredients. The lactic acid increases and overpowers other microorganisms by producing lactic acid. As a result of this, correctly fermented kimchi contains higher amounts of lactic acid bacteria and lactic acid than dairy-fermented products such as yogurt. The organic acids in kimchi are mainly formed by the conversion of sugars in the raw materials during fermentation. The physiological properties of the microorganisms involved in kimchi fermentation and the content of fermentable sugars in the raw materials affect the production of organic acids quantitatively and qualitatively. The organic acids and viable lactic acid bacteria have been shown to be effective in controlling human intestinal microflora.

During the fermentation of kimchi, sugar components are dissolved slowly and leached from the tissue. Sugars are not only nutritionally important, but are also key taste components. Kimchi is an important source of eight vitamins, carotene and ascorbic acid. Dietary fiber, as well as ascorbic acid, carotene, extract of red pepper and extract of garlic, used as ingredients in kimchi, are believed to suppress the formation of carcinogenic or mutagenic components, and to inhibit mutagenicities induced by several carcinogens /mutagens. Also, dietary fiber in kimchi helps to prevent constipation and control intestinal microflora. Calcium and phosphorus are major minerals in kimchi. The lipid content of kimchi is very low, so it is considered a lowcaloric food. It has been reported that factors in the fermented cabbage of kimchi inhibit the synthesis of enzymes, which mediate the conversion of procarcinogens to proximal carcinogens involved in colon cancer.

According to a survey, there are nearly 200 different types of kimchi. The type of kimchi varies according to vegetables, spices and other ingredients used and preparation methods. Since the northern part of Korea has colder winters than the southern region, winter kimchi in the north contains less salt, whereas its counterpart prepared in the south requires more salt for preservation. Also, people living near the coast tend to add seafood. Kimchi can be divided into two basic categories: winter kimchi and seasonal kimchi. Winter kimchi includes whole-cabbage kimchi, wholeradish kimchi, ¡°pony-tail¡± kimchi and diced-radish kimchi. Winter kimchi is prepared in early winter and lasts throughout the season until spring vegetables are available. In recent years, however, vegetables are available all year round thanks to greenhouse farming, so it is no longer necessary to prepare a large stock of kimchi to last the whole winter. There are many types of seasonal kimchi depending upon the availability of certain vegetables. In the spring, young cabbage and sliced-radish kimchi have a refreshing taste. Cucumber kimchi and baby radish kimchi are the most popular during the summer. In autumn, whole-cabbage kimchi, dicedradish kimchi and ¡°pony-tail¡± kimchi are common.

The writer is a journalist based in Seoul.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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